2024也快過完了,到了最後一季我也換血一些新球桿,對於目前球桿的特性來說,合我八字,所以運用和配合我的身體與動作自如。我球桿的八字是以習慣的規格為基礎,所以對桿身,桿頭和握把特性才能抓出來。體驗是所有事情的核心,而體驗過後就是要進行調整的任務。或是作為下次新球桿選擇和購買的基礎。
以木桿來說,現在的木桿都以容錯、易打為標配,當然有不同的款式或型號可以選擇。但我個人的經驗是選容錯高的扁大的桿頭,容錯會拉到滿格。配上不同特性的桿頭身也容易,要走易打或性能皆可。不過,如果一開始就衝有難度的選手款桿頭,使用難度會拉高,配置桿身也不容易達到一些懶人包的特性。
我現在的木桿配置規格都一樣,但桿頭選高容錯特性,桿身走低倒旋、低彈道來衝球速、壓低倒旋和落地滾動性。從10年前我就開始買高容錯的木桿,近3年才配以低倒旋和低彈道的桿身。因為我下場都會用更多的身體轉動、尤其肩膀,這容易讓球飛高,所以壓低彈道和低倒旋是開外掛的標配。而這2年用下來的結果非常好,距離從240~280碼。
鐵桿也是如此,桿頭就是中空設計,容錯和性能都能兼顧,再配上碳纖維桿身,動作和力量就隨叫隨到。我的鐵桿彈道一樣也會高,所以倒旋低是非常重要。這樣的配置已經讓我用超過10年時間,好打好用,只是我平時很少練球,準度是時好時壞。我是太要求,因為只有多練習才能提升準度。
在挖起桿,我這兩年算做了不少新wedges,我也發現一些東西,也摸出我自己習慣的特性與要求。首先,wedge我平時也練不多,所以它不能難度太高。我這2年用一些日本鍛造和美國鑄造的wedge桿頭,我覺得美國的鑄造wedge比較容易操控。對一般球友來說,練球時間只有週末,如果想要讓下場的切桿達到你的預期,或不要產生太大的失誤,這類的桿頭是比較容易上手。
日本鍛造雖然不錯,手感好,但反彈角沒有美系的高。尤其球在草密的狀況,需要更多的bounce去把球給送出了。如果你的短切經驗值不高,就不太敢用力切下去。因為怕被草絆住、先切到土、送球沒有做好等,都影響最後球的距離和感動習慣。不管你是用高拋/飯/Flop shot、還是一般切球/chip shot,都沒有美系wedge的桿頭容易。
本文未完,下集請點下方。
我2024年球桿體驗分享/My 2024 new custom golf clubs experiences!下集
https://www.peargolf.com/article/wo2024nianqiugantiyanfenxiangmy-2024-ne...
2024 is almost over, and as we head into the last quarter, I’ve tried out quite a few new golf clubs. By now, I’ve got a good understanding of how to use these clubs and match them with my golf swing. Since I’ve set up the clubs based on my spec, I can really feel the characteristics of the shafts, heads, and grips. Experience is the key to everything, and after trying them out, the next step is always fine-tuning. Or, I use that experience as a base for choosing and buying new clubs in near future.
For driver, these days they’re all designed for forgiveness and ease of use. There are, of course, different models to choose from, but in my experience, I prefer a larger, more forgiving head that maxes out the forgiveness. Pairing different shafts is easy, whether I want more playability or performance. But if you go straight for a tough, pro-level head, it can be more difficult to use, and matching the shaft can be tricky to achieve those beginner-friendly features.
Right now, my drivers are set up with the same specs, but I chose heads with high forgiveness and shafts that perform low spin and a low ball trajectory, maximizing ball speed and rollout. I’ve been using forgiving woods for over 10 years, but it’s only in the last three years that I’ve paired them with low-spin, low-trajectory shafts. I tend to use more body rotation, especially with my shoulders, which naturally sends the ball higher, so lowering the spin and trajectory is really important. The results over the last two years have been great, with my distance ranging from 240 to 280 yards.
It’s the same with my irons. I use hollow heads that balance forgiveness and performance, paired with carbon fiber shafts that help me get the most out of my movements and power. Like with my woods, my iron shots also tend to be high, so low spin is crucial. This setup has worked well for over a decade, but I don’t practice much, so my accuracy can be hit or miss. I don’t mind, though—practice is the only way to get better at that.
For wedges, I’ve experimented a lot in the past two years and have figured out the characteristics I like. Since I don’t practice with my wedge much, it can’t be too difficult to use. Over these two years, I’ve tried Japanese forged and American cast wedges. I find American cast wedges easier to control. For weekend golfers who don’t have much time to practice, and want consistent chipping without making big mistakes, these wedges are easier to handle.
Japanese forged wedges feel great, but they don’t have as much bounce as American ones. Especially in thick grass, you need more bounce to get the ball out. If your short game isn’t good you might be hesitant to take aggressive swings, worrying about hitting the turf first, or not striking the ball well. Whether you’re hitting a flop shot or a chip shot, American wedge heads make things easier.
My 2024 new custom golf clubs experiences!Part II
https://www.peargolf.com/article/wo2024nianqiugantiyanfenxiangmy-2024-ne...
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